Free Hugs and Big Bellies

This past weekend was certainly an action packed one, and I am exhausted.

When I told my friends about the job offer it started a chain reaction of celebratory dinners and drinks in some interesting night spots. On Thursday night we went to a German pub in Roppongi, which is by far the sleaziest area of Tokyo. Notorious for its high concentration of dodgy foreigners and equally dodgy Japanese men going to hostess clubs filled with Eastern European call girls, it is definitely my LEAST favorite area of Tokyo. I can't say I was too impressed with the German pub, what with $10 US beers and overpriced sausages. And I can't really explain why being in an area with so many other 'gaijin' (foreigners) makes me nervous... maybe it has to do with my desire to blend in to daily Japanese life and try to be as inconspicuous as possible. That's kind of hard to do when all these Nigerian touts are on the sidewalk trying to get you to come into the strip clubs. Eww. Roppongi is just gross. (Note to self - never go back there again.)

Saturday was an extremely lovely day, and I went with two friends to a very funky part of the city called Harajuku. We started off checking out the costumed freaks in French maid outfits and panda bear costumes who hang around by the station every weekend, and we came across a group of people who were holding up signs offering free hugs. They explained that this movement started in Australia as a way to make people smile and now it has spread to Japan. What a bunch of hippie crap!




But this guy was sort of cute, so Machiko and I gave him a hug and went on our way. The next destination in Harajuku was the famous Meiji Shrine, where we were fortunate to see the very solemn procession of a traditional Shinto wedding.





After playing paparazzi, we did some clothes shopping in some very funky shops in the trendy Takeshita Street, ate some crepes, and had dinner at a Thai restaurant where we feasted on green curry and tom yam soup. After a few beers we decided that it was absolutely imperative that we do some karaoke, so I called up my buddy Rich who would drop everything in order to pick up a microphone, which is exactly what he did. Two hours and many drinks later, we all had sore throats and noticeably thinner wallets, but god how I love karaoke.

But the busyness didn't stop there! Oh no! There was no resting at any point this weekend, because Sunday was the big day... the final day of the Grand Sumo Tournament of Spring 2007! I was really excited to go with my pal Jana and her colleagues to see the final day with the best wrestlers and it was a great time.

We started off our day in Ryogoku eating a traditional sumo wrestler meal - chanko nabe - which is a huge, tasty sort of soup that helps the wrestlers get big and bulky.





Filled with chicken, mushrooms, cabbage, sprouts and all kinds of tasty goodness, you put it all in this massive soup pot on the table and cook it yourself. But there was one thing that disturbed me a bit -- there was four egg yolks to put in the pot, and I was told that these eggs are very special because they are not laid by a chicken... they apparently kill the chicken and remove the egg from its belly! Very strange. But you know me, I'll try anything once...

After the nabe, it was time to catch the afternoon sumo matches, so we headed for the nearby stadium.




These guys are truly massive, all towering giants with thighs as big as my waist. Sumo is highly ritualized, with each step and movement having a specific significance. For example, clapping the hands together attracts the attention of the gods; showing your open palms demonstrates that you have no weapon; and lifting the leg into the air and bringing it down with a heavy stamp drives away evil spirits. Each fighter then throws some salt onto the ground of the ring to purify the fighting area. After a lot of belly-slapping and riling up the audience while intimidating their opponent, they assume the position, and charge at each other with the force of a raging bull. It is incredible the kind of power these guys have to be able to lift each other up by the loincloth.




There are many, many other steps of the match that I won't bore you with. Instead, I invite you to watch this wonderful video of the very last fight, from start to finish. In fact the best part is at the very end!





Apparently if the guy you were cheering for loses the final match, you have the right to toss your cushion down into the ring in disgust! It was great fun... I think people do it just for the heck of it, even if their guy wins!